Ace Ventura: oysters, craft beer and wildlife in California’s most laid-back town

The San Buenaventura state beach is all but empty of sunbathers. The only bodies on display are the ones at Surfers Point, where a constant churn of frothy white peaks keeps them bobbing aloft on their distant boards. From there, the sands sweep south to infinity, or at least to the neighbouring town of Oxnard. It’s a 10-mile stretch of southern Californian coastline, less than an hour’s drive from Malibu, and there’s not a celebrity tan in sight.